Morro Rock is a prominent physical presence, and a Peregrine Falcon preserve, found at the entrance to Morro Bay. It is a volcanic plug located within the Morro Bay Estuary. Water flows through volcanic aquifers from Chorro Creek and Los Osos Creek. Morro Bay Oyster Company lovingly labors over their Pacific Gold oysters where these contrasting environments meet. Their oysters are then harvested and delivered to local chefs and restaurants on the Embarcadero and way beyond.
Pacific Gold oysters are a hardy species of true oysters that thrive in the cold, rich waters of Morro Bay. The convergence of elements from the volcanic aquifers and tides brings constant changes in salinity, temperature, and nutrients. The Pacific Gold Oyster adapts to these changes over the course of its life and develops a robust flavor because of it. When coastal storms bring rain and the salinity drops in the oyster beds, the Pacific Gold Oyster will develop a distinct melon finish. The strong northwest winds of spring cause the upwelling of cold, salty, nutrient rich water that is found deep near the ocean floor. The strong tides bring this water into the farm twice a day which allows the oysters to explode with growth and take on the fresh salty brine that surrounds them.
Foam buoys sway with the waves. They thunk and squeak as they gently bump and nudge each other or grasp the edges of the dock. We make our way past Morro Rock, with waves gently slapping the bottom of the flat-bottom oyster boat. Suddenly surrounded by row upon row of floating oyster beds, it becomes apparent the striking similarities and stark differences between traditional farming and oyster farming, a form of aquaculture.
The rows of oysters are submerged and buoyed, lined up like crops in a field. Both traditional farmers and oyster farmers constantly battle the weather, and adjust to changes in the local environment. Oyster farmers have the added challenge of dealing with waves, tides, and the occasional supermoon, which tug at the tides and constantly change the oyster environment.
To draw along parallels even further, horticulture and aquaculture work require being exposed to the elements for hours each day. Love for the outdoors is essential to maintain longevity in either type of work. Being surrounded by nature all but promises unintentional interactions with critters, with a layer of excitement added to oyster farmers who must often reach below the water and grab without being able to see what they are about to touch.
Traditional farming produces environmental waste, while oysters are a “crop” that not only absorbs carbon and turns it into calcium carbonate to strengthen and grow their shells. They also absorb nitrogen (a greenhouse gas) during the time it takes for them to reach 4-inch market size. This exchange happens as a single oyster filters up to 50 gallons of water each day, improving the environment around them as they grow.
One might be tempted to think the work at Morro Bay Oyster Company is done once the daily harvest is picked and delivered to shore. When they opened in 2008, there was no built-in market for offloading the nearly 750,000 oysters being harvested annually. Some people would buy directly from Morro Bay Oyster Company on the weekends but creating the relationships with chefs and buyers throughout California is a big reason the company continues to be successful. The chefs, and their patrons, are rewarded with the freshest oysters possible with product being delivered or moved using same day shipping.
The briny, buttery flavor of a fresh Pacific Gold oyster grown locally is truly something to appreciate. Even more so when becoming aware of the hard work involved in sustainable aquaculture, and the nearly 16 month process of getting this delicious delicacy onto your plate.
